Some trips are about ticking off bucket-list destinations, while others are about immersing in the soul of a place. For us, Beaujolais was the latter. Known for its rolling vineyards, medieval villages, and famed wine culture, this enchanting region in France is a world away from the bustling streets of nearby Lyon. With this two-day Beaujolais itinerary, you will enjoy golden-stone hamlets, indulgent wine tastings, and gourmet meals. This journey wasn’t just about seeing a place—it was about feeling it.
Two Days in Beaujolais
Our trip started from our Hôtel Le Royal Lyon – MGallery in Lyon, where our tour guide picked us up after breakfast, and we hit the road early. The drive into the Beaujolais region took just under an hour as we watched the cityscape give way to gentle hills and lush vineyards. The air was cooler, the sky was clearer, and the atmosphere more relaxed, and we knew we were in for a treat. Wine lovers and scenery seekers, Beaujolais was our kind of place!
Day 1: From Lyon to Southern Beaujolais
Morning Day 1
Our first stop on our Lyon Itinerary was Ternand, a medieval village perched high on a hill. Time seemed to stand still here. As we wandered the narrow cobblestone streets, the honey-colored stones unique to the area added to the warm and timeless glow. We wandered the streets dating back to the 13th century as we took in the views of the surrounding vineyards. This was the perfect introduction to Beaujolais.
Oingt – Most Beautiful Village in France
The charm of Ternand was only the beginning. A short drive later, we arrived in Oingt, a town so picturesque it has been named one of France’s most beautiful villages. There are only 150 villages with this distinct designation, and Oingt boasts this title thanks to its beautiful setting, artists’ community, and unique qualities.
Unlike Ternand’s quiet solitude, Oingt buzzed with creativity. Its winding streets were lined with art studios, boutiques, bakeries, and cafes, each offering a glimpse into the vibrant community that calls this village home.
We climbed to the top of the lookout tower for unparalleled views of the valley of the Azergues River. We walked the village’s fortified walls and explored its medieval church. The village’s artist community adds to its beauty, and we had the opportunity to meet renowned Calligraphy artist Yves Dimier.
After he showed us his process of creating his masterpieces, we tried our hand at the craft. It was amazing to see how much work goes into his art. Even though we didn’t leave as calligraphy masters, we were gifted with a signature of our names in his own calligraphy handwriting.
Lunch
Lunch was spent at La Table du Donjon in Oingt, where the meal matched the beauty of the setting. The restaurant sits on a terrace with views of the Beaujolais mountains. Lunch consisted of a decadent mushroom tart paired with a crisp Beaujolais Blanc.
Afternoon
From medieval villages of the morning, it is now time to sample the local Beaujolais wines. The afternoon is all about tasting and discovering fine Beaujolais.
Celia and David Large Vignerons
The afternoon promised a closer look at the life of a winemaker, and we met Celia and David Large. They offer immersive experiences, and we watched firsthand the seasonal work that goes into taking care of the estate’s plots. We tried our hand at pruning the vines and tilling the soil. There is a lot of work to be done, and it was a treat to have a glimpse behind the scenes.
But the reward is the final product, and we enjoyed a tasting of their cuvées right in the middle of the vineyard, overlooking the valley.
Château de Champ-Renard
The afternoon ends at Château de Champ-Renard, an estate that seemed to embody the romantic ideal of a French château. The highlight, however, was the wine and cheese workshop. The château’s sommelier guided us through a tasting of four wines, each paired with a local cheese. The combinations were magical, with the flavors dancing on our palates in perfect harmony. I don’t think we have ever enjoyed a wine pairing that was so thorough. The cheeses matched each wine perfectly.
Dinner
That evening, we made our way to La Robe Rouge, a gastronomic gem tucked into the heart of the vineyards. We had eagerly anticipated the meal, crafted by Chef Thomas Guignier, whose inventive take on regional flavors has earned the restaurant glowing praise. Opting for the dégustation menu, we prepared ourselves for a culinary journey of discovery.
The entrée, a dish of fennel paired with smoked haddock, kiwi, and a purée of capers, was beautifully plated. They easily accommodated Dave’s gluten allergy by serving parsnips with escargot and a cardamom mouse. Does that sound heavenly? Each dish was paired with carefully selected Beaujolais wines, which elevated the meal to new heights.
The final course was a dessert that epitomized indulgence: a tiramisu made with two types of chocolate and accented with black truffle.
Overnight
As night fell, we arrived at Villa Alexandre, our accommodation for the two nights we were in the region. This 4-star boutique hotel, nestled in the vineyards of Régnié-Durette, was once a family home. Its charm was undeniable, from the elegant furnishings to the serene garden seamlessly blending into the surrounding countryside. Our room was a sanctuary, with windows overlooking the courtyard.
Day 2: Exploring Northern Beaujolais
The morning sunlight streaming into our room at Villa Alexandre was the perfect wake-up call. After a quick breakfast featuring freshly baked croissants and homemade jam (they even served gluten-free bread for me), we set out for day two of our Beaujolais itinerary.
Morning Day 2
Château de Pizay
Château de Pizay is a sprawling estate in the heart of Beaujolais that is as much a feast for the five senses as a hub of wine excellence. One of the region’s oldest and largest wineries, Château de Pizay, has been cultivating its vineyards since the 11th century.
While the promise of wine tasting beckoned, we began our visit with a unique experience that Château de Pizay is renowned for, the Sensory Trail. This interactive journey is designed to engage all five senses and is an innovative way to deepen your appreciation for the art and science of winemaking.
The Sensory Trail is located in the cellars, where a series of stations invite you to discover the essence of wine through touch, sound, sight, smell, and taste. The experience was immersive from the start. At the first station, we ran our fingers over textured surfaces designed to mimic the feel of soil, bark, and grape skins. It was then on to testing our sense of smell. The olfactory station lined up scents representing key aromas found in Beaujolais wines.
We went through the stations testing our knowledge, and at the end, they scored our tests to see how our noses held up. I am happy to announce that we passed and are on our way to becoming amateur Sommeliers.
The trail culminated in the best way imaginable—with a tasting. We sampled several of Château de Pizay’s finest wines. We could sample as much or as little as we liked as they had spouts lined up within their boutique. After our tasting, we walked through the grounds to enjoy its gardens that were designed by the same person requisitioned to design the gardens of Versailles.
Château de la Chaize
Off to the next winery! Dating back to 1676, Château de la Chaize is a masterpiece of French design. Its symmetry and elegance are the work of Jules-Hardouin Mansart, the architect behind parts of Versailles, while André Le Nôtre landscaped its expansive gardens.
After another informative wine tasting (I even bought a bottle of their Broulliy), it was time to move on, as the day was just starting. Yes, it wasn’t even noon yet, and we had already been tasting wine for hours. That’s the way it goes in Beaujolais!
From Château de la Chaize, we continued to Mont Brouilly for a quick stop to see the breathtaking views in Beaujolais. The 360-degree panorama was mesmerizing—fields and vineyards stretched to the horizon, their patterns broken only by the occasional farmhouse or church spire.
Lunch
Lunch was a highlight of the day. Midway through our second day in Beaujolais, we arrived at Le Coq in Juliénas, a restaurant that has been serving up tradition for more than a century. The first course was escargots de Bourgogne, a classic dish with elevated parsley butter and served with a crisp green salad.
The main course couldn’t resist the coq au vin. The tender chicken, braised in red wine, was accompanied by shiitake mushrooms, sweet onions, and a buttery, whipped purée that melted on the tongue. The meal ended with a cheese plate featuring selections from the local Ferme du Bois Denis. All of this was paired with delicious Beaujolais wines.
Afternoon
When we finally stepped outside, the sun was high, casting a golden glow over the village’s vineyards. Full and deeply satisfied, we were ready to walk around the corner to Château de Juliénas.
Château de Juliénas
We were initially supposed to do a wine tour in a vintage 1964 Volkswagen Combi, but the season was over, so we must save that for the next visit. Instead, we tasted more wine in their cellars and toured their caves. I will admit, we were feeling quite happy by this time!
Terrasse de Chiroubles
After a full day of wine and food, a walk was in order, and the hilltop vantage point of Terrasse de Chirouble was an excellent way to find our second wind. The trail leading to the 740 meters above sea level viewpoint was peaceful, allowing for a perfect view of the ten Beaujolais Crus before me.
Dinner Villa Alexandre
Tonight, we had a chance to relax at Villa Alexandre. Some people opted for time in the sauna and pool, while others enjoyed a cocktail in the lounge. We had a nap on the welcoming bed.
The restaurant is an elegant setting with French classics. I opted for the cheese board as I can never have enough fromage in France. It was the perfect ending to a perfect two days in Beaujolais.
A Farewell to Beaujolais
As we packed our bags the following day, ready to return to Lyon, we couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of gratitude. Beaujolais had offered us more than just a getaway; it had given us an experience rich in flavor, history, and beauty. From the golden-stone villages to the rolling vineyards and the unforgettable meals, every moment was a reminder of life’s simple pleasures.
For those seeking a journey that nourishes both the body and soul, Beaujolais is waiting to welcome you.
When to Go to Beaujolais:
Be it spring or fall, Beaujolais is a quiet region. If you’d like to see the vineyards awake and wearing their lush green robes, spring is a great time to visit. The weather is mild, and it’s a perfect time to explore slowly without the summer crowds. If you prefer warmer weather and spending lunchtime on charming restaurant terraces, summer is a good choice.
The Beaujolais hills are at their most beautiful in the fall when the vines are heavy with grapes and the hills are ablaze with golden color. November’s Beaujolais Nouveau celebrations are a fun and festive time to visit. It’s one of France’s most popular wine holidays and a great time to experience the region’s joie de vivre.
What to Pack for Beaujolais
Beaujolais is a relaxed region, but it’s also elegant and refined. You’ll need comfortable walking shoes to hike the cobblestone streets of Oingt and Ternand and to walk the vineyards. Lightweight, loose fabrics are perfect for summer days, but don’t forget to bring layers for cooler evenings. If you’re booking restaurants like Auberge du Cep or Ema Restaurant, you can dress up in casual chic attire. And bring space in your luggage for wine. You’ll want it. Seriously, you’ll want a lot of it.
Getting Around Beaujolais
Beaujolais is easy to navigate by car. The winding country roads are a big part of the region’s charm, and you’ll stumble upon many of its hidden gems with luck. A GPS is helpful, but don’t write off map apps or ask the locals for directions. Public transportation is minimal, but guided tours are a great option if you’d rather not drive. Also, with a guided tour, you can drink all the Beaujolais wines you like!
Many châteaux and vineyards offer wine tastings and tours, and some even pick up and drop off. Logistical details are taken care of so you can focus on the wine.
The final detail is to learn some French. While many in the tourism industry speak English, the locals don’t. A friendly “bonjour” and “merci” go a long way in this welcoming region. They’re passionate about their history, land, and wine, and a simple “ça va” can lead to a beautiful friendship. We use Babbel and have found it helpful.
With some planning, patience, and practice, Beaujolais is the perfect region to slow down and savor. It’s not a destination big on flash or fancy but rich in experience and wine. As I learned, it’s okay if it’s not all about the wine. Sometimes it’s better.
