Today I want to share my free self-guided Edinburgh Royal Mile walk with you. The Scottish capital is a beautiful place to explore on foot. With its stunning hilltop castle, pretty green spaces, bustling shopping streets, and hidden closes, there’s a lot to see on a walk in Edinburgh. My self-guided route and map will show you one of the most famous parts of the city.
Self-Guided Edinburgh Royal Mile Walk
From the awe-inspiring architecture of St Giles’ Cathedral to the bucolic scenery along the Water of Leith, Edinburgh is one of the most beautiful cities in the UK.
Whether you like seeing heritage buildings or sweeping views, browsing shops or exploring museums, Edinburgh has something for every traveler.
No matter if you have 1 day in Edinburgh or 4 days in Edinburgh, you’ll be able to discover a lot in this part of Scotland.
I’ve been to the city countless times, and each visit has shown me more of Auld Reekie’s main attractions and under-the-radar spaces.
But on every visit I find myself walking down the Royal Mile, a succession of roads in the Old Town that runs between Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyrood House. I hope my walk helps you enjoy exploring this part of Edinburgh as much as I have.
If you want a guided tour, you can see good options on the GetYourGuide website. I’ve taken many tours with them over the years and I’ve always had a good experience. From Harry Potter tours to castle tours and Old Town walking tours, there’s no shortage of choices. You can book one here.
If you want more ideas, you can find lots of additional routes and maps in the book Edinburgh’s Hidden Walks. You can get it on Amazon here.
Edinburgh Walking Tour
My self-guided walking tour of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh starts at the castle. It’s centrally located, so it’s easy to get to from Edinburgh Waverley station, coach and bus stops, and on foot from the Royal Mile and other parts of the city.
Edinburgh Castle
If you want to, you can explore the castle before you begin. You can book tickets here. When you’re done, start your Edinburgh Royal Mile walk by facing away from the castle and heading straight down Castlehill.
You’ll pass The Scotch Whisky Experience, the Camera Obscura & World of Illusions, and The Witchery by the Castle hotel as you make your way to Tolbooth Kirk and Lawnmarket.
When you get there, turn right on Upper Bow and follow it down the hill. Upon reaching the staircase, descend it to get to Victoria Street.
Victoria Street & Grassmarket
Victoria Street is one of the prettiest and most colorful streets in Edinburgh. There are lots of great shops and restaurants here. Don’t miss the Harry Potter shop if you’re a fan. If you’re hungry, Oink is a local favorite.
Spend some time walking around Victoria Street, then continue down to the right it as it becomes West Bow and leads you to Grassmarket. Grassmarket Square was once an execution site, but today it’s a lively space lined with fun pubs and restaurants.
You can walk around a bit and climb the Vennel steps in the southwest corner if you want to see a famous view of Edinburgh Castle.
Either way, continue your Edinburgh Royal Mile walk by heading back towards West Bow and veering right on Cowgatehead when you get there.
Greyfriars Kirkyard
Walk a short distance down Cowgatehead, then veer right again on Candlemaker Row. On your right you’ll see an arched entrance to Greyfriars Kirkyard. Go through it and you’ll find yourself in a historic graveyard.
This place is full of headstones with names you might recognize from the Harry Potter books. J. K. Rowling got inspiration for her characters’ names here (she wrote some of the novels in a cafe nearby).
George IV Bridge
Spend as much time exploring as you’d like to, then exit the churchyard on Greyfriars. Head across Candlmaker Row and turn left to get to George IV Bridge. On your right you’ll see the National Museum of Scotland.
On your left you’ll see the famous Greyfriars Bobby Fountain. It commemorates a loyal 19th-century Skye Terrier who supposedly spent 14 years standing by the grave of his owner until he himself died in 1872.
After paying homage to the famous pup, continue your walk along George IV Bridge. You’ll pass by the site of The Elephant House, the aforementioned cafe where J. K. Rowling wrote the Harry Potter books.
Keep walking down the road, passing the National Library of Scotland on your right as you make your way to Lawnmarket and the Royal Mile.
The Writers’ Museum
Turn left on Lawnmarket, then right into the archway leading to Wardrop’s Court. Once through it, you’ll find yourself in an atmospheric courtyard that’s home to The Writers’ Museum.
You can visit the museum or spend time taking photos and videos, then exit through Lady Stair’s Close to get back to Lawnmarket and the Royal Mile.
Parliament Square & St Giles’ Cathedral
Turn left on Lawnmarket, walking past the Statue of Walter Scott and the Heart of Midlothian Mosaic before you come to Parliament Square and St Giles’ Cathedral on your right.
You can go inside the cathedral if you want to (don’t miss the stunning Thistle Chapel), or continue walking down the Royal Mile as the name changes to High Street. You’ll pass the Mercat Cross and the Adam Smith Statue as you go.
Museums & Closes
You’ll also go by The Real Mary King’s Close, one of my favorite secret places in Edinburgh. If you want to get into the city’s history, it’s worth touring. You can book tickets here.
Whatever you choose to do, you can peer through the arches of the closes on your left as you head down the Royal Mile. Some of them have great views of the New Town.
You can also take a detour down Cockburn Street. This winding Victorian road has great restaurants and cafes along it. It’s a fun place to stop for a snack, drink, or meal on your walk. The Milkman is my favorite spot for a coffee.
Whether you take the detour or not, continue walking down High Street, passing the Museum of Childhood and the Scottish Storytelling Centre. Keep straight as the name of the Royal Mile changes to Canongate.
You’ll pass by more cultural institutions like The People’s Story Museum as you go. If you’re an Outlander fan, you can take a detour into Bakehouse Close to see a filming location from the famous TV show. It was the setting for Jamie’s print shop in Season 3.
If not, continue down the road, going by the Museum of Edinburgh and Canongate Kirk. If you want to, you can head through Dunbar’s Close to get into a secret garden. It’s a beautiful green space, and a nice place to take a rest in peaceful surroundings.
Whether you go to the garden or not, continue your Edinburgh Royal Mile walk by heading down to White Horse Close. This historic street on the left side of Canongate is home to a courtyard full of beautiful heritage homes and buildings.
Scottish Parliament & Palace of Holyroodhouse
Back out on Canongate, you’ll see the eye-catching Scottish Parliament Building in front of you and the 16th-century Palace of Holyroodhouse (aka Holyrood Palace) on your left.
The latter is the monarch’s official residence in Scotland, and it’s home to stunning royal interiors. It’s worth touring if you have time.
Whether you visit or not, your self-guided walking tour of Edinburgh ends here. There’s lots more to explore nearby, from the famous Arthur’s Seat to Calton Hill.
Edinburgh Walk Map & Details
Self-Guided Walking Tour of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh
I hope my self-guided walking tour of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile has made you want to get out and discover one of the most famous parts of the Scottish capital.
Edinburgh numbers among the best UK city breaks, and it’s one of my favorite places to visit in the UK. I’m sure you’ll love it as much as I do when you go.
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